A good lashing of new oak provides toast and vanilla notes that augment the smoky black cherry and plum flavors in this red, which combines complexity, freshness and balance, with licorice, leather and tar chiming in on the firm finish. Sangiovese.
Jancis Robinson (17.50)
Sangiovese vines aged 50-80 years in Vincigliata, Fiesole, Rufina, Greve, Panzano and Siena. Soils rich in galestro and clay. Vinified in open-topped French barriques with 6-8 manual punchdowns per day. Aged 30 months in French oak. 1,250 cases.
Mid cherry red. Lovely aroma of sour cherry allied to a more savoury quality and also a touch of oak sweetness. Graetz has achieved that fine, dry tannic texture here that I only ever find where the vineyard has been allowed to speak. Again there is a touch of oak sweetness but the fruit shines – the palate is both scented and deep in fruit but without being a fruit bomb. It is a lovely wine but I can’t help thinking the price is this high because so little is made. But is is beautifully refined, aromatic and persistent. Clear Sangiovese character but Sangiovese that is showing terrific finesse. I have not tasted older vintages but this has the freshness and the harmony to have a long life if you can keep your hands off it as it gives so much scented pleasure already. (JH)
