Colore 2021 Bibi Graetz

Professionele reviews

Robert Parker (98)

The Bibi Graetz 2021 Colore is Sangiovese from old vines, but otherwise, winemaking and the oak regime is identical to the other top red, Testamatta. In this case, fruit comes from the Lamole area with vineyards at a high 600 meters above sea level. Some are south-facing but high up on the mountain. As Bibi explains: “Colore delivers power and freshness, whereas Testamatta delivers transparency and freshness.” The Colore shows the pure energy and liveliness of Sangiovese with violet, wild cherry and orange zest. The wine delivers an elegantly earthy side with a very delineated mouthfeel driven by very fine, silly tannins. This is a beautiful wine with delicately sweet cherry on the finish. Bibi has been making little changes to this wine over the years (other than giving it a new winery home in Fiesole) to capture an ideal or benchmark for Sangiovese. His 2021 is his best wine yet. Production is 35,000 bottles, which is slightly lower compared to the last vintage.

Winespectator (99)

Intense aromas of purple fruits such as raspberry, spice, lead pencil and granite. Perfumed flowers as well. Full-bodied, tight with poised tannins that show transparency and focus. Crunchy and very long. Better after 2028 when it opens and integrates beautifully.

Jancis Robinson (17.50)

100% Sangiovese. Harvest 20 September to 16 October. Harvested parcel by parcel from four vineyards: Lamole, Vincigliata, Olmo and Siena. Selected fruit was destemmed, gently pressed into open-top 225-litre barriques for the smaller plots or 50-hl casks or stainless-steel tanks for the larger plots. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts with up to three manual punchdowns per day at the peak of fermentation, gradually decreasing to only one to keep the cap wet. After fermentation, the wines were moved into old barriques and 50-hl casks where malolactic fermentation occurred. The wine was aged for around 18 months before bottling.
An intriguing nose, this blends leather and sweet clove with lively red fruit. The palate is seamless with a sweet middle but very fine acids and gently extracted tannins. A weightless but intense, harmonious example, this is eminently drinkable already. All finesse and succulence. (TP)