Barolo Bussia Colonnello 2012 Aldo Conterno
Like the Barolo Bussia Cicala, the 2012 Barolo Bussia Colonnello steps out with heavy footing. You feel the weight of the vintage, yet the bouquet shows fewer of those brilliant aromatic accents that are so magnificently delivered in cooler vintages. The aromas are all there - wild berry, balsam herb, cola and licorice - but the intensity is somewhat muted. The wine also shows tightness and astringency in terms of tannins that will relax as the wine continues its evolution.
The aromas and flavors are a combination of ripe cherry, leather and vanilla that quickly shuts down in the face of dense, dusty tannins. This red will need some time to sort itself out, yet feels balanced and elegant, with a long, fruit-tinged aftertaste.