A blend of the 1999 (60%), 1997 (20%) and 1996 (20%) vintages, the NV Brut Grand Siècle Les Réserves #20 is the latest wine to be released in Laurent-Perrier's magnum-only late disgorgement program. Wafting from the glass with complex aromas of confit citrus, toasted nuts, tangerine, clear honey, iodine, buttery pastry and espresso, it's medium to full-bodied, pillowy and incisive, with a deep, complete core of fruit, racy acids and a long, saline finish. The rich, gourmand 1999 base vintage is lent cut and structure by 1997 and 1996 to deliver a Champagne that is clearly more than the sum of its parts.
Jancis Robinson (19)
Les Réserves was born when Bernard de Nonancourt's daughter, Lucie Pereyre's mother, found some magnums and jeroboams of Grand Siècle No 17 in the Laurent-Perrier cellar after her father died in 2010 and they wanted to celebrate the house's bicentenary in 2012. This release, to be offered in October 2022, available in magnums only, is essentially long-aged Grand Siècle No 20, which was 60% 1999 and roughly 20% apiece of 1997 and 1996. The final blend was 54% Chardonnay, 46% Pinot Noir, made up of eight grands crus.
I was lucky enough to taste Laurent-Perrier's vintage champagnes 1999 and 1997 not that long before tasting this blend which is so much more complex and intense – as well as much fresher. Quite a feat! The wine is just this side of toasty but has massive impact and almost suggests some torrefaction. This is extremely vivacious while still being bone dry. Pungent with a hint of caramel but also lime – that's how broad the spectrum of flavours is. Very, very complete. Satisfying, revitalising – what I'd call a sore-throat wine, so intense is its finish. Difficult to see how anyone would be disappointed by this, the essence of Grand Siècle. (JR)
Vinous (95)
The NV Brut Grande Cuvée Grand Siècle No. 20 Les Resérves, from magnum, is laced with hints of pastry, orchard white pepper, brioche and the toasty, reductive notes that develop with many years of aging on the lees. Wonderfully complex and also quite fresh, the No. 20 is beautifully rendered.
