Bruichladdich Blacker Still 50.7% 1986

Professionele reviews

Serge Valentin (86)

Again a nice story here, ‘blacker still’ referring to old, unpolished stills (hence blacker) that are supposed to make better spirit just like old pans make better soup. Funny bottle as well, ‘finished’ like a bottle of Port. Next step, using genuine wine bottles? ;-) Colour: dark amber.
Nose: lots of sherry, lots of coffee, lots of chocolate and lots of prunes right at first nosing with a nice smokiness (burning leaves and wood). Notes of kirsch, Smyrna raisins, toffee, slightly burnt cake (brownies), hints of balsamic vinegar, with also something slightly animal in the background (rabbit). Also something coastal, sea air… then pine needles. Very sherried but quite fresh and rather complex at the same time, which is always good news. Just a very, very faint soapiness. Mouth: a big, bold sherry with lots of rancio, caramel and toffee, roasted raisins, chicory… A little rubber as well and kind of a ‘nice’ sourness (wine sauce). Gets quite liquoricy and then more and more on cooked caramel (gentle bitterness). Goes on with bitter oranges, cinchona, maybe a little curry, sage, cloves (mulled wine), hints of chilli... Lots of presence on the palate, the whisky staying maybe slightly in the background and the sherry and the port playing the first parts here. Medium long finish, frankly winey and ‘cooked’ now but still in a nice way. A good version, for genuine sherry lovers.

BOW (91)

Tasting Notes by Jim McEwan, head distiller;

Character: Viscous, warm, rich and responsive. A spiritual pleasure in its prime with the congenial heart warming unique marriage of Islay, Portugal and Spain.

Colour: Dusky, vintage sweet sherry.

Nose: The first wave of aromatics is one of mixed fruits, sweet sultanas, prune, ripe plums and raisins all sprinkled with Demerara sugar. This is followed by the classic tropical fruit notes which are the Bruichladdich house style. They intermingle superbly, supported by nutmeg and toasted walnuts, then a dash of brine floats by. The ambrosial aromas are simultaneously strong and elegant; they rise slowly like the incoming tide to reveal the sweetness of the unpeated malt – biscuity and crisp - leaning towards vanilla with a twist of mellow oak and almond. Its olfactory overdrive, do NOT add a single drop of water!

Palate: The palate presence is one of concentrated understated power and finesse that allows the flavours to emerge slowly. The Sherry/Port notes concede to the purity of the malt and seem happy to support rather than dominate bringing harmony to the glass. On the back palate a nutty sherry/toffee flavour brings closure and contentment.

Finish: A satiny aftertaste that seemingly goes on forever, culminating on the mellowness of the oak.

Mood: Absolute decadence!