Macan Classico 2019 Benjamin de Rothschild & Vega Sicilia

Professionele reviews

Robert Parker (93)

The second wine in the Bordeaux sense is the 2019 Macán Clásico, a more concentrated and powerful wine cropped from a warmer and drier year that was saved by the 80 liters of rain in the first half of September. It fermented in stainless steel with 10% of their own yeasts, and the élevage was 22% in stainless steel and the rest in new and used oak barrels, mostly French but with around 5% of them American, and lasted 12 months. It has a moderate 14% alcohol, mellow acidity and good freshness and balance. 2019 was a dry and warm year when they did a soft vinification to avoid harsh tannins. The nose is ripe without excess, and the oak is neatly integrated. The palate is juicy and round, with fine tannins and a velvety texture.

James Suckling (93)

Rich, but refined and layered nose that unwinds dark plums, dried strawberries, olives, cocoa beans and some savory Mediterranean spices. Medium-to full-bodied palate, framed by an abundance of powerful, fine-grained tannins that give a grippy texture. Needs time. Drink after 2024.

Jancis Robinson (17)

100% Tempranillo. Until 2020 no Graciano. This joint venture began at the dinner table. In 2004–2009 they bought vineyards secretly in Labastida, Sonsierra and Baños de Ebro and lots more. Both Rioja Alta and Alavesa. In 2016 they finished their winery. Winemaker Gonzalo Iturriaga: ‘I feel very spoilt because I have everything I need and we can do things in a more precise way. When I arrived in 2015 Pablo thought Macán was a good wine but it lacked something. It was big but … I felt freer in Rioja than Ribera. This is the first release I’m more or less proud of. This is the fruit-forward release. 2019 was warm and quite dry. Grapes were al dente when picked. We don’t want overripe. We don’t want jammy. We’re seeking freshness. In 2019 the berries were very rich and concentrated. So we did a very small remontage/extraction. Less wood-ageing than usual. For the first time we left some wine, 25–30%, in tank not wood for fruitiness.’ The rest was aged for 12 months in US oak from their own cooper. Then they used French oak, and transposed tank and oak – quite a complex ageing regime!
Very deep crimson. Very bright fruit and toasty and intense. Really lively and exciting. Some saltiness. Very long indeed.