Nose: its quite brutal! At this pace, they’ll still have ‘young’ PE by 2050, unless the stocks are almost depleted indeed (which they are since around 2000 anyway, ha!) After that initial burst of alcohol and creosote, many smaller elements are falling into place, one after the other. Turpentine, eucalyptus, tincture of iodine, seaweed, almond oil, pink grapefruits, tobacco smoke, chartreuse, coal, walnuts and apples… But rather less tar than expected. With water: some very nice notes of white wine (sour) and brine, humus, fir smoke, damp wool, garden bonfire…
Mouth: triple bang! It’s huge, it’s massive, it’s sharp at the same time, and it’s almost… young. Quite some smoke, a little fish oil, grapefruits and lemons, smoked tea, liquorice, kippers, green tea. A lot of lemon zest, with something rather green, pungent, tannic… Grape pips? Cider apples? Not an easy baby for sure, but it’s not a peat monster. With water: the greenness is even more obvious. Liquorice wood, grass, green apples, kippers, maybe a wee touch of chlorine (nope, I’m using my usual Vittel), grapefruits, a little salt… And bags of apple peelings.
Finish: long, rather on cider apples, smoked fish… The greenness remains. I have to add I’m finding little tar in the aftertaste, just a little – better late than never!
Comments: we’re very close to last year’s release, as far as I can tell, this one being maybe just a notch rougher. On the other hand, it’s a very moderately tarry PE that’s probably less ‘immediate’ than earlier versions. Oh, and quality remains very high, of course, even if I have the feeling that the Caol Ila 30 will be (even) more to my liking. Just a feeling (yeah yeah).
Gal Granov (92)
Angus corner @whiskyfun:
Once again, Serge has already written notes for this one, but I feel it would be a shame not to include it here. Colour: Gold. Nose: The thing that is quite striking about these older Port Ellens (and Caol Ilas as well) is the way the peat and maritime aspects intersect overtime to form this almost labyrinthian complexity. At random I get whelks, iodine, beach pebbles, creel nets, an oily peatiness, brine and dried kelp. There’s also lemon skins, wild flowers, heather, langoustines and fish sauce. Some peppery aspects, a little leathery note and some unlit cigars, then gorse and toasted poppy seeds. Really rather beautiful. With water: leafier and more earthy now with a bit of bonfire smoke, some chai tea and a few sprigs of dried dill. Mouth: natural tar, gentian, soot, kippers, brine, olive oil, myriad dried herbs, salted cod and a beautiful, undulating minerality. Preserved lemons and salted almonds with a little black olive tapenade as well. There’s also a lean meatiness as well, like a salted bacon fat note. A little smoked tea and some wasabi. With water: again it moves in an earthwards direction. Notes of flint, tea, sandalwood, coal dust and umami paste. Some black olive bread and a little rosemary. Finish: Long, resinous, coastal and citrusy with some lingering smoky notes and an ethereal peatiness. Comments: These bottlings are expensive no doubt, but they’re also quite beautiful whisky. Port Ellen seems to age spectacularly well, in my book.
Words of Whisky (91)
BOW (92)
Tasting Notes Courtesy of Diageo :
Nose : Sophisticated and understated; dry overall, opening with distant, faint smoke, before a wave of familiar sweet and smoky notes, among which hints of hessian and warm wood are all that suggest great age. The distant smoke soon grows closer and more fragrant, while above it drift pleasing sweet aromas of honey-cured smoked meats or root vegetable. Through all this a fresh, cleansing note rises, to vie with sweet mint and sharp citrus - winey hints too. Finally, smooth, dark cocoa, some vanilla and more wood smoke. With water, first sweet, then more muted and savoury, though later a fruity clarity sweetly returns.
Body : Smooth and agreeably oily.
Palate : Immediate and lively! At first, rich and honeyed, the sweetness perfectly balanced by maritime salt as if to suggest sweet seaweed. Then, unexpected notes of citrus and ginger burst like lime and ginger marmalade on wholemeal toast. In turn, this sunny edge is clouded by sweet smoke, rising against a velvety backdrop of dark chocolate. The rich character remains in essence unchanged when reduced with water; still warming, the citrus becomes orange oil, with ginger and modest smoke.
Finish : Very long and warming, with crisp ginger and citrus, and fresh, menthol-clean notes that rise against a backdrop of drying, oaky wood smoke.
A glorious grande dame, superb in every way and with a poise and self-assurance born of long experience. An unexpected Port Ellen with a warming, spicy, gingery edge to its traditional sweet and smoky nature: captivating at cask strength, while a little water reveals a charming sweetness in the nose and richness and depth on the palate.
