Benromach 35 years Old 43% NV

Professionele reviews

Serge Valentin (91)

Good, this baby wouldn’t tell its vintage, BUT a leaflet says that it was ‘laid down to mature in the 1980s’. I suppose the vatting was done last year, so that means that it must be some 1980, unless the casks were disgorged in 2016, which means that there could be some 1981 as well. Doesn’t that make sense, Watson? So in theory, it could be the same juice as that of the 30 yo from circa 2011, which wouldn’t be bad news (WF 90). But enough speculation, let’s try this new baby… Colour: deep gold. Nose: instant pleasures. A beehive in the midst of summer, some fresh apple juice, and very discreet touches of mustard, or perhaps horseradish. Let’s go a little further, that would be beeswax, heather honey, pollen, artisan cider, and yes, horseradish (smidgens), then hints of old books, furniture polish, and orange zests. All this is very lovely, both compact and complex. Forgot to mention walnuts. Mouth: starts bitter like old style manzanilla (indeed, again – that’s pasada) and raw cocoa powder, plus walnuts yet again, and bitter oranges. This bitter style is something that I enjoy a lot, this baby could be seen as the most complex form of Jaegermeister. Yes, in a way. Keeps unfolding on various dry herbs (thyme) and even more walnuts, with an ashy smokiness that’s also very ‘Benromach’. The oak tends to come to the front, but it would come with quite a lot of tobacco, Habana-style. And some pepper too. It’s also a case where the 43% are not a problem at all. Finish: long, herbal, with some dry mint, some bitter oranges, and quite a lot of cinnamon. The lovely old oak has got the last word. Comments: very excellent as such, but also singular, and different from any other old malt. That’s clearly a tremendous asset, when many whiskies – unless peated - tend to taste more or less the same. Vanilla? Who mentioned vanilla?

Gal Granov (90)

Nose: nice and quite elegant , with sweet Mānuka honey, candle wax, and the polished old oak I was so anticipating here, yes. It’s here alright. There’s a lot to explore here your sure. Giving it some time is a good idea… There’s also a nice fruity side to it with some berries, a hint of red grapefruit, and maybe unripe melons, red apple peel and ripe pear in golden syrup sprinkled with cinnamon powder. It’s not over woody at all, and actually it’s quite restrained. But lovely it is…

Palate: a nice bitter sweet symphony … There’s overripe oranges, apples and baking spices and then there’s dark chocolate, bitter toasted oak and a nutty earthy edge. Maybe a faint darker note of tea leaves / tobacco and clove, and rich rum soaked sultanas , and then some dates.

Finish: Long and rewarding with the tobacco, dark chocolate , Apple peel and oak.

Bottom line:

This is an awesome drop. really excellent stuff, and so drinkable. It’s not a sort of in your face dram,and at 43% it’s a bit restrained, but very elegant, takes time to discover, but again, there’s a lot under the hood. If I have to compare it to the 1976 , I’d probably pick the 1976 over it, but only by a small margin.

Words of Whisky (91)

BOW (91)