Oberer Hubacker Riesling Monopol Grosses Gewachs 2023 Weingut Keller

Professionele reviews

Jancis Robinson (17.50)

Limestone soils. 2021 was the first vintage in which they were able to label this as Oberer Hubacker, which is the original parcel of Hubacker that has been a monopoly in the Keller family for 100 years. Tank sample.
More green fruits here than in the Kirchspiel, a deeper tone, like going down a tonal scale from von der Fels to Kirchspiel to this wine. Stony/mineral dustiness. On the palate there's great depth and richness, the wine's feet planted more squarely on the ground than those of the Kirchspiel, but it still reaches up to the sky with purity of citrus fruit and intense freshness on the finish. Very long, with extreme tension and freshness. Needs time. As it opens in the glass, it gains more smoky complexity. (JH)

BOW (8.75)