The Whisky Agency 29 Years Old Irish Single Malt 48.5% 1990

Professionele reviews

Serge Valentin (89)

I’ve been told, mind you, that the gentleman on the label is absolutely not someone who’s just tried this little Irish whisky. Phew. Colour: gold. Nose: this one’s obviously subtler, with tiny herbs, ointments, herbs, peelings, leaves, nuts, a touch of camphor, moss, putty again… But it’s also a tad more fragile than the 1998, which was rather more ‘evident’ and without any headache. Not saying this one’s more tiresome but there, I’m sure you see what I mean. Mouth: much bigger and fruitier this time, with first bags of blueberries, then oranges, papayas, mangos… And acacia honey, barley syrup, Demerara sugar, tea, a touch of varnish… Quite funnily, it tends to become stronger over time, even a little rough(ish). Finish: rather long, kind of young, but of course, excellent. Comments: I think my heart is torn between the 1998 and the 1990. In that case, one way out, have another whisky…

Whisky Notes (88)

Nose: vanilla, nectarines and ripe pineapple. Quite some creamy notes (crème brûlée or panna cotta) and a hint of honey. Maybe not the most exhuberant release though, there’s still a malty core and a chalky note that seem to act as a brake on the tropical notes.

Mouth: similar thoughts. We start on gooseberries and greengages with grassy notes. A little white pepper. Kiwi. More pineapple after a while, but still no über-fruitiness. A few mineral touches again. Waxed papers. Rapeseed oil.

Finish: medium, with some fresh herbs, oily notes and a hint of grass.

We’ve been spoilt by all these Irish releases and this is not my favourite one. Still a joy to drink, no doubt, but we’re missing the fruits that are usually bursting out of the glass.

BOW (88)

Colour: light gold. Nose: Not the immediate fruit bomb as expected. This one is more on fresh linens, breads, lime zest, wild flowers and tiny wee glimmers of camphor, glazed pastries, white stone fruits and kumquat. Develops an extremely elegant and fragile honeyed quality after a few minutes. Some putty, chalk, limestone and motor oil with a scattering of mixed seeds too. Something of a departure I would say, but still quite beautiful. Mouth: there are fruits but it’s really more tart green fruits such as apple, gooseberry and star fruit. Then nettles, cat piss, New Zealand sauvignon and pine resin. Also some rather grassy olive oil, more toasted seeds, brown bread, sourdough and mineral oil. Definitely a more austere example from these vintages but you still feel there’s a rather expressive and outlandish core personality on display here. The texture is also nicely gentle and buttery. Finish: medium and on pollens, bay leaf, green herbs, bitter lemon, olive oil and wee camphory touches. Comments: Really could be a glass of cask strength sauvignon blanc with all this crisp, nettley greenery on display. Another one for summery afternoons with a good book. Quite a different beast if you’re expecting one of these more overt fruit bombs. I would hazard this is more Cooley than Bushmills, but don’t quote me!