Vosne Romanee Aux Reignots 2005 Liger-Belair
From vines (some 80 years old) just above their monopole La Romanee, the Liger Belairs’ 2005 Vosne-Romanee Les Reignots displays vintage-typical notes of black raspberry and blackberry, exotic spices, mocha, vanilla, and a decidedly strong gamey character for a wine so young (but which Liger-Belair seeks to assure me is a passing reductive phase). Savory soy and salty, stony mineral notes add to the undeniably complex impression made by this bright, elegant, texturally spare Pinot, and there are fascinating lingering notes of floral perfume, new wood, forest floor and passing woodland creatures. When best to drink this and where it is headed, I cannot guess. But in the interest of full disclosure I should note that some of my more illustrious colleagues gave this very high marks, at least before bottling.