Highland Park The Dark 17 Years Old 52.9% NV

Professionele reviews

Serge Valentin (79)

Integrally ex-European oak sherry seasoned casks, this baby comes with a story long like an arm. I’ll simply tell you that it’s a brand new expression. Colour: gold. Nose: starts a tad hot and pretty gingery, so well in line with what’s to be expected from these kinds of bespoke casks (as I could check last time I was in Jerez). Sawdust, pencil shavings (including leads), then a mentholy side (embrocations) and wee whiffs of yellow curry powder. Noses very modern this far. With water: some wood smoke, barbecue, burning pine needles and cones… Mouth (neat): same feeling, there’s a rather huge pine-y arrival, with quite a lot of ginger again, cinnamon mints, sawdust, caraway, nutmeg, bitter oranges… Feels a bit ‘flavoured’ rather than ‘matured’, I have to say. With water: same feeling, with a lot of oak extraction, bitter oranges, and cumin. Finish: long, spicy, oak-forward. Peppermint, green pepper, nutmeg. Nicer touches of grapefruits in the aftertaste. Comments: the casks’ part was rather too big for my taste, but it’s a very fine drop for sure – should you like them oak-driven. I'm totally sure I'll like its coming sibling 'The Light' better..

Whisky Notes (88)

Nose: a slightly subdued nose. There are sweet blackberries and fig pastry but mainly spices. Cinnamon sticks and roasted (chest)nuts. Soft hints of metal polish.
Mouth: again a fairly spice-driven sherry profile. Roasted nuts and coffee beans, dark malt, including a light bitter edge of Seville oranges. Then strong herbal tea, juniper and clove. Cinnamon cake. Some heathery smoke towards the end.
Finish: long, fairly dry, with smoky notes, herbs and a bittersweet dark chocolate edge.

A fairly dry and spicy expression, perhaps more influenced by the type of wood than by the sherry itself. I started with a lower score but it really grew on me. A bit expensive for what it is, I think, but I admit it looks great.